Michael Atkinson visits the newly upgraded Old Course Hotel – one of Scotland’s most luxurious golf resorts.

In July of this year, 290,000 people descended on the historic town of St Andrews, on Scotland’s east coast, over four days. The draw of the huge crowds was the staging of the 150th Open Championship on the town’s famous ‘Old Course’, a course generally referenced as the oldest golf course in the world. Whilst precise details are lost in the mists of time, it is clear that golf in its rudimentary form, was played over the linksland of St Andrews as far back as the 1400s. The course has been instrumental in the development of the sport of golf into the global phenomenon that it is today.

In a dramatic final day of play at the 150th Open, Australian Cameron Smith produced an extraordinary round of 64 on the historic course, carding five birdies in a row straight into the back nine. With Cameron Young, as well as third round leader and previous Open Champion Rory McIlroy both constantly pushing at the top of the leaderboard, the closing few holes became of vital importance in determining who would become the Champion Golfer of the Year at the 150th Open.

Anyone seeking victory at an Open in St Andrews has to encounter one of the toughest par 4s in championship golf – the famous ‘Road Hole’ at the 17th. Cameron drove off taking a perfect line, that line being a drive over the top of the green replica railway sheds within the grounds of the Old Course Hotel. A par at the 17th, followed by a birdie on the 18th would see Smith clinch victory and hold aloft the iconic claret jug.

Every drive at the 17th brings the Old Course Hotel front and centre and the hotel itself has become an iconic backdrop to many images of the Old Course. The finest and most exclusive of views of the Old Course and the 150th Open also came from the suites and balconies of this grand luxurious hotel.

One of Europe’s most prestigious hotels, you can’t miss the Old Course Hotel as you drive into St Andrews. The hotel was built and opened in 1968 on the site of the old St Andrews railway station. Nods to its heritage remain, with the original Station Master’s lodge (now renamed the ‘Jigger Inn’), a part of the hotel, providing great pub food and drinks just a short lob wedge from the illustrious turf of the golf course.

Whilst St Andrews lost its railway station and line as a result of the infamous ‘Beeching Report’ and related line closures, British Railways still saw the commercial opportunity of St Andrews as a global golfing mecca and via its subsidiary, British Transport Hotels, proceeded to construct a hotel which now provides some of the most outstanding views in the world of golf. The hotel that stands today has grown and evolved significantly since 1968 and witnessed a number of different owners, but since 2004, has been owned by the Kohler Co, one of America’s oldest and largest privately owned companies, which has invested vast sums into expanding the hotel and its facilities into one of the foremost luxury resorts in the world.

I was back in St Andrews to visit the hotel, following the most recent refurbishment, a project which included the addition of an entirely new top floor to the existing hotel. The extension has been seamlessly integrated and the renovation leaves the Old Course Hotel, Golf Resort and Spa St Andrews (to give it its full title), with 175 bedrooms including 35 suites, suites which offer breath-taking views of the Fife coastline.

The extensive renovations over the last year included the introduction of a penthouse, new guest rooms, as well as refurbished event spaces, and a new 80-cover restaurant situated on the fourth floor, which launched in autumn 2021. It provides all-day dining, serving international cuisine using locally sourced Scottish produce, and an extensive wine and cocktail list. With floor-to-ceiling windows and an outdoor terrace, it is set to become the new destination restaurant and bar in St Andrews offering unrivalled views of the town and golf course. The penthouse, added to the fourth floor, is the only room with a private lift and balcony, outdoor seating and a fire pit, with spectacular views overlooking West Sands Beach and the golf course.

I wasn’t in the penthouse, but I was in a magnificent Old Course room on the second floor. These spacious rooms (which feature a lounge area and separate bedroom area round the corner) provide the most spectacular of views over the golf course and beyond to West Sands Beach and further afield. These rooms have a traditional luxury vibe, furnished in dark wood, marble and deep rich colours. There’s a small bathroom just off the lounge area and then a vast bathroom off the bedroom, which includes a shower and large Jacuzzi bath, perfect for soaking in to relieve tired muscles after a round of golf.

I loved standing on the balcony and watching the golfers playing the Old Course. These rooms really do provide one of the most magical of views. When my alarm went off the following morning after a night’s blissful and deep sleep in the unbelievably comfortable bed, the room was still in the pitch dark, the light kept out with the heavy deep red velvet curtains. I pulled them back to be bowled over by the sunlight streaming in and I opened up the doors and stepped out onto the balcony once again to soak in the most beautiful of mornings. I surveyed the greenkeepers perfecting the course ready for the early golfers of the day and took in the views out to the beach and sea, the water glistening in the distance.

Pre-dinner drinks were in the Road Hole bar on the fourth floor, where I enjoyed a refreshing Eden Mill golf gin and tonic, the contemporary Scottish gin and single malt whisky brand which is building a stunning new distillery on the banks of the River Eden overlooking St Andrews. The bar enjoys floor to ceiling windows which maximise the views.

Dinner was in the newly opened Swilcan Loft. This is an entirely new restaurant, created from vacant roof space of the hotel prior to the refurbishment. Entering the Swilcan Loft is a breath-taking experience. It is fully encased in floor to ceiling glass windows and the late summer evening enabled me to enjoy watching a majestic sunset, the vista including the famous Swilcan Bridge (after which the restaurant is named), as well as looking up the 18th fairway and towards the renowned clubhouse of the Royal and Ancient Golf Club of St Andrews and the tall, striking red sandstone building, known as the Hamilton Grand.

The Hamilton Grand, which during its history has been a hotel, Royal Air Force training headquarters and even student accommodation, is also owned by the Kohler Co and has been painstakingly restored and transformed into a beautiful luxury apartment block, owners of which have the benefit of spa access, priority dining and the housekeeping services of the Old Course Hotel.

Dinner started with teriyaki Loch Duart salmon with wasabi mayonnaise and pickled cucumber. This was melt-in-the-mouth salmon, an absolutely divine taste experience. I followed the salmon with the Scottish Black Isle beef ribeye and finished with a lemon tart dessert accompanied by Fife raspberries and a raspberry sorbet.

The hotel focuses on sourcing its food from Scotland and as many local producers as possible. There is a great cocktail and wine list, I enjoyed the ribeye alongside a sumptuous South African pinotage. Dinner was a delight.

Whilst the Swilcan Loft is the hotel’s new signature restaurant, it is but one of three dining options within the hotel itself. Also on the fourth floor is the 3 AA Rosette awarded Road Hole Restaurant. This is also where breakfast is served. On the ground floor of the hotel is the brasserie style Sands Café and Bar, also a dog friendly environment!

Also owned by the hotel are the Ham’s Hame sports bar and the Jigger Inn. Ham’s Hame is a short walk from the hotel, along past the fairway and green of the 18th of the Old Course. Situated at the bottom of the Hamilton Grand, this is a relaxed and informal eatery where you can also watch sport on large television screens. The Jigger Inn sits closely next to the hotel and the Kohler Waters Spa café offers healthy lunchtime meals. Traditional afternoon tea is also available in the conservatory. You are certainly never short of choices for dining.

Whilst the Old Course Hotel overlooks the most famous of golf courses and specific golf packages can include a round on the Old Course itself, the hotel also has its own golf course, known as The Dukes. The Dukes is unusual in that it is a heathland course, a short drive from the links courses for which St Andrews is renowned. The Dukes in St Andrews is very long and very good. Big greens, massive oversized bunkers, everything immaculately presented. It can stretch out at almost 8,000 yards. But it can be played at much more manageable numbers.

The Dukes, originally designed by five times Open champion, Peter Thomson, although tweaked and remodelled since, is an elevated course, it is high up above the town, facilitating views that incorporate looking down on the town of St Andrews and across to another great Open championship venue, Carnoustie. Play here and mix up your links-land trip with this brilliant inland beast, from where you can look down on the town’s older courses and better understand the geography of golf’s most precious coastline. The clubhouse and practice facilities are second-to-none.

The hotel’s ‘ultimate Old Course package’, includes seven nights of accommodation and five rounds of golf including on the Old Course, The Dukes and at Carnoustie. With prices starting at £13,100, it is tailored to create the most memorable of golf experiences.

The luxury resort also features the Kohler Waters Spa and fitness centre. Following a multi-million renovation in 2018, Kohler Waters Spa has extended to 2,300 square metres and features 13 treatment rooms, a 20 metre pool, a hydrotherapy pool, sauna, steam room and plunge pool, as well as a gym and fitness centre.

To experience the Old Course Hotel is a real treat. The warmest of welcomes awaits in this five-star hotel where the staff go out of their way to make your stay as memorable as possible. For the golf lover, there is possibly no better luxury accommodation anywhere in the world. However, you don’t need to be a golfer to love a stay here, for it is also simply one of the finest of luxury hotels.

Eden Rooms at the Old Course Hotel start at £306 for double occupancy. Visit their website for special packages which can include golf.

Address: The Old Course Hotel, Golf Resort & Spa, Old Station Road, St Andrews, Scotland, KY16 9SP Phone: 01334 474 371 Website: oldcoursehotel.co.uk

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